Masher

One Badass Cookie — Snowball Cookies

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Here I am with my snowblower which refuses to start at the moment, and my reward for all the shoveling I had to do as a consequence — this week’s One Badass Cookie, my Great Aunt Dotty’s Snowball Cookies. There are certain desserts that my ex, a chef, and I used to refer to as “secret weapons.” These were the ones that we baked off in big batches and then froze to pull out on those days when we couldn’t stand eating another healthful thing. The snowball cookies fit in that category which made a lot of sense if you think about it since real snowballs are weapons too. Speaking of which, my eleven-year-old son got me smack on the ear with a big icy one last night. Mom didn’t have much of a sense of humor about it. The snowball cookies are great though, but if you want to make them, baker beware. They are proven irresistible. Once you start, you cannot, I repeat, cannot stop eating them. A cookie that comes with a warning — now that’s One Badass Cookie. Read on for the One Badass Cookie Tip of the Week, the recipe, and more photos of these sugar-frosted walnut packed gems.
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Masher

Thing of the Day

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Laura wrote in her last Thing of the Day post about her kids’ toys strewn around her kitchen and often landing in the cooking pot. So here’s my whimsical little kitchen troll who inhabits my counters, and a poem to go with her (with sincere apologies to the fabulous W. S. Merwin.)
So . . . that was the way it was, and in the fragrant light
that came in at the window, she was standing
still, that way, seeing nothing but the light
just the empty kitchen, with the smell of the over-ripe banana . . .

see also: Thing of the Day




Hands On

We Love Feedback

How great it is when I get feedback on a story or recipe.  I always initially cringe with some apprehension.  Did I get it right?  Did it work?  (Self doubt never entirely goes away, does it?)

Well, I’ve been really happy because t he pandolce story I wrote in December got some wonderful responses.  Why this particular story?  Don’t know.  Perhaps because the idea of natural leaven has a certain magic to it--the wild yeast around us, the idea of a lump of living dough that gets passed down from one generation to the next--"mother yeast.” It’s just such an old technique.  Or maybe it was simply that love so many of us have for Italy. 

Ken Albala sent me this wonderful post from his blog about how he read my pandolce story in Saveur, and it inspired him him to make his own pandoro with a starter--and no recipe. The results look gorgeous, and he makes it so easy.  Check it out. (Ken is an award winning writer and food scholar who tells me he plans to build a backyard bread baking oven this summer--and plans to do it all by hand.) You can see his story and pandoro picture here. 
http://kenalbala.blogspot.com/2008/12/pandoro.html
Valerie Tassa from San Francisco initially wrote me asking where she could find fresh citron--not so easy in the U.S., but she triumphed, and found these, which she candied
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to make this gorgeous thing,
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and yes, she is a ravioli fan, too, and boy was I touched to find out she made Tessie and Adalgisa’s recipe from my book.  Gosh. 

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Masher

Thing of the Day

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My ex-boyfriend, who broke my heart, mailed me something inconsequential that I left in his apartment along with a chatty little card. I found his coffee in the freezer. Did I send it to him with a chatty little card? No, I served it to my new beau.
He said, “I thought you only drank decaf. Why do you have real coffee?”
“To serve to you,” I replied.

see also: Thing of the Day




Masher

One Badass Cookie — Raisin Cookies

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Photo credit: My son, Max, one badass photographer

One Badass Cookie is proud to present its first Reader’s Recipe of the New Year! Congratulations to my friend, Michele Kishita of Philadelphia, Pa. for sending in her mother’s Raisin Cookies. Michele told me that her mother baked these cookies during Michele’s childhood and that they were so delicious she craved them all her life. Though her mother left her the recipe, Michele rarely bakes and hadn’t had the cookies in years. When I mentioned this to my own mother, she gasped in surprise. “Do you know?” she told me, “Those are one of my favorite childhood cookies too and I lost the recipe. I’ve been looking for it for thirty years.” So Michele dug out her mother’s original recipe, pictured below, and I started baking. I was thrilled to send a big container of the finished cookies to both Michele and my mom. A taste that lasts a lifetime — now that’s One Badass Cookie! I also found this link to a sister cookie that sounds fabulous too for those who like a bit of spice and zest with their raisins. Read on for the updated version of Michele’s recipe, more photos and the Badass Cookie Tip of the Week. Does it work? You bet your badass it does!
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I like to use an old jelly jar to cut out round cookies.

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Masher

Thing of the Day

Toys in the Kitchen

Stuffed guys on the kitchen counter again,
furry ones, just below those
spoons dangling on the hook
and ready, for measuring
coffee.
Graphic novel --little boxes of outrageous behavior-- and
plastic wrestler dudes entangled.
Dried up garlic bits,
origami lotus flower,
transformer in vehicular form.
I am old to this game, thirteen years now,
and the little one nearly 8.
Tonight, a Lego warrior came
so close to the frying pan.
I knew it would come to this someday. 
When I was done, I just threw him and let
his pair of ragged claws scuttle across the crumbs.

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Not to be Forgotten

Champagne Cocktail from 1862

Champagne Cocktail.

(Pint bottle of wine for three goblets.)
(Per glass.)
Take 1 lump of sugar.
1 or 2 dashes Angostura bitters.
1 small lump of ice.

Fill the goblet with wine, stir up with a spoon, and serve with a thin piece of twisted lemon peel. A quart bottle of wine will make six cocktails.

--Jerry Thomas
Bar-Tender’s Guide or How to Mix Drinks, 1862



What Is it About Bubbles?

Nancy called me all excited about her bubbly recipes--bubbly as in the champagne granite and champagne truffles she found from her wild young days as a pastry chef in NYC. 

“Laura can you do a “Not to Be Forgotten Recipe” for champagne? And can you write a few lines and be a little deep, okay?

Sheesh.  I’m still recovering from ravioli. 

This recipe for champagne cocktail comes from the 1862 Bar-Tender’s Guide, book, which many experts say is the very first cocktail book ever published. It will come as no surprise to most of you that Americans first gave the world the invention (if you can call it such) of the cocktail.  You can’t imagine the French adding sugar and ice and bitters to their beloved sparkling wine from the Champagne region of France, now can you?  That said, this sure does seem very simple and fun, and I’m curious, just so long as the bubbles are still there.

Which brings me back to the champagne itself and its most important element:  those bubbles, which get created after the wine is already made and then bottled.  The trick is that a little yeast gets added to each bottle creating a second fermentation process. The yeast gets to work, eating up sugars and creating alcohol and gas--trapped inside the bottles.  After a short time, the yeast dies away, but the fizz remains. Voila.  Bubbles.

“What is it about bubbles?” I asked Nancy.  “Why do we like them so much?  And why on New Year’s Eve?”

“Because, bubbles are ephemeral,” she replied.  “They represent that we are only beautiful and young once.  Then it all pops . . . like a bubble.”

And then she sent me to this beautiful painting by Clara Peeters, a 17th century Flemish still life painter, who, using a convention of the era, painted an actual bubble into the air about her head in her self portrait.  Take a look. 

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The bubble is to the right of her face against the back wall. The gold and coins scattered on the table are symbols of material wealth--not to be compared with spiritual wealth. She holds a watch to remind us that time is passing.  And the flowers also suggest fleeting beauty.

“Check it out,” said Nancy.  “Her strong forearms a and ruddy hands give her away. She’s an artist, not a pretty doll. The expression is serious. This is an artist posing herself and allowing us to gaze at her as an object in order to make her point.  Very brave.”

So I say here’s wishing you some fun though ephemeral bubbles for New Years Eve, and more enduring happiness for 2009.  And here’s to Clara too, brave painter. 

Happy New Year.  Now go get the champagne.  Be ready.  The fun has already started. 

see also: Bubbly Recipes



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Masher

New Year’s Suckling Pig

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Laura told me this morning as we were chatting on the phone that the Victorians loved to use pigs as a symbol of good luck and prosperity on their New Year’s cards and decorations (yes, this is really what we talk about which gives you an idea how jellypress was conceived . . .) Anyway, it makes sense, doesn’t it? If you had a pig, you had something to eat. These photos are just in from my brother, Bruce, an attorney and photographer, fresh from a recent trip to Madrid. These people are serious about their pigs.
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This photo is a scan Bruce did of the restaurant Botin’s post card. Seems they made the Guinness Book of World Records for being the world’s oldest restaurant. Got a suckling pig anecdote? We’d love to hear from you. Happy New Year.

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Masher

Bubbly Recipes

Champagne Granite (Sweet Champagne Ice)

Makes 8 cups (serves 12 - 15)
1 cup plus 2 T. water
1 cup plus 2 T. granulated white sugar
1 bottle Champagne
3 oranges, juiced
1 lemon, juiced
1. Make simple syrup: Place water and sugar in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Boil until the sugar is dissolved. Set syrup aside to cool.
2. Combine champagne, orange and lemon juices. Add cooled simple syrup. Stir well to combine. Pour mixture into an 8 x 16 inch, shallow, nonreactive pan and place in freezer for several hours or overnight. For best results, periodically stir the partly frozen granite during the freezing process. Stir gently to keep from breaking up the thin sheets of ice. To serve, scrape granite with a fork and layer in a champagne glass with fruit such as fresh raspberries or poached pears.



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We love Jean-Baptiste-Simeon Chardin’s Soap Bubble painting and our easy bubbly New Year’s recipes. Let us know if you try them.
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Champagne truffles, rolled in cocoa and ready for their close-up.

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Masher

The Best Christmas Ravioli

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Well, it’s ravioli time, isn’t it.  Christmas is next week.  And we working women of the modern era, well, we like to have ours done about now and stocked away in the freezer.
I made mine this past Sunday with my sister Andrea, who came over eager to help. 

So now while I’m in the ravioli spirit is a good time to tell you all that The Lost Ravioli Recipes of Hoboken: A Search for Food and Family has recently come out in paperback. 

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I really like this cover and—and hope the book will continue to reach people, as that’s what every author wishes for.  In this new edition, there is a reader’s guide at the end of the book, and I will be making myself available in 2009 for book group invitations, mainly by phone but also the occasional in person visit.  You can find out more, including my contact info, at www.lostravioli.com.

Back to ravioli….

This year, there was not a lot of torture over raw or cooked meat, as you can see in these photos of braising beef, veal, and pork. 

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There were all sorts of aromatics involved and the house smelled beautiful for two days. 

I did NOT get all worried about the cream cheese, either.  I added a package of it.  Since my book came out a year ago, I can’t tell you how many Genoese descendants have told me they use cream cheese. In light of everything and I publicly apologize for my former snobbery

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Masher

One Badass Cookie - Wrapping Up Baked Goods as Gifts

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Too bad an empty box does not have the same allure as it did when we were two years old. I guess I’ll have to fill them with cookies before I mail them out! Read on for One Badass Cookie’s inexpensive yet beautiful way to package baked goods for gifts (and with some recycling too!) These boxes cost about 89 cents each, or, you can do what I did, which was ask my local CVS manager if I could just have the one on the right after they had unpacked and left it in a pile on the floor of the store. Lucky find! And free . . . That’s one badass way to snag a deal.

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Masher

A Christmas Bread Called Pandolce

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I have an article in this month’s SAVEUR magazine.  It’s all about pandolce, the holiday feast bread from Liguria--and the bread my great grandmother made long ago.  I hope you all go out and get it because Saveur is a wonderful magazine. And the photos--such as the one above by Penny De Los Santos--are beautiful. In the meantime, since they don’t have the article available online, I’ll tell you a little about it.  It’s the story of how last year at Christmas time, I went to a little town called Savignone north of Genoa to learn how to make a very very special pandolce with a 6th generation baker named Adriano and his wife Harriet.  This is Savignone.
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Adriano and his father built a little cabin with wood burning oven inside it, and this is where Adriano gave the lesson.  Here we are in their little 12 x 12 cabin.  This is Harriet and Adriano.  And these are all the ingredients they had ready on the table when we arrived:  flour, sugar, butter, raisins, candied orange peel, and pignoli.

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Not to be Forgotten

Real Old Biscotti


To make little morsels, that is “mostaccioli” in the Milan style

Take fifteen fresh eggs and beat them in a casserole and pass through the sieve with two and a half pounds of sugar fine and powdered, and half an ounce of raw aniseed or partly crushed (aniseed) and a grain or two of fine musk, and put with this two pounds and a half of flour and beat everything for three quarters of an hour, so that it becomes like the pasta for fritters and let it rest for a quarter hour and rebeat it another time.  Then one takes a sheet of paper put into a “lucerne” and greased, or a ‘tortiere’ with wafers beneath that have not been bathed in such a way (not greased) and then put this paste into the ‘lucerne’ or ‘tortiere’ (specific pan types) until it is not higher than the thickness of a finger and immediately powder with sugar and put it into the oven that is hot, or the tart pan, and cook it like a tart and when this pasta is cooked (not wet) and will in all lose the humidity and it will be enough cooked, that is like a tender focaccia, pull out the ‘lucerne’ or ‘tortiere’ and immediately cut with a large thin knife, cut in slices as large as two fingers, and as long as one pleases, and put them in the oven with pieces of paper beneath the biscuits, turn them enough, ensure that the oven is not as hot as the one above (second baking is at a lower temp than first), and when they are well dried, pull them out and save them because they are always better the second day than the first and they will keep for a month in their perfection. 

--Bartolomeo Scappi, 1570
The Opera of Bartolomeo Scappi (1570): L’arte et prudenza d’un maestro Cuoco (The Art and Craft of a Master Cook)

Translation, 2003 by Lady Helewyse de Birkestad, CW. 



Ever since Nancy posted her gorgeous biscotti recipe last week in her badass column, I have been thinking about the history of biscotti and cookies in general.  It’s really only during the last 150 or so years, after the arrival of the stove, that cookie baking became so common place among regular people.  Before then, baking was more complicated because you had to do it in your brick or stone (or mud/adobe) oven.  Not to mention that sugar was expensive, so sweets were reserved for special occassions unless, of course you were rich. 

I am posting this beautiful photo so you folks can see what what I mean. 

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This image comes from the Tacuinum Sanitatas, an Arab medical manual from the 11th century.  On baking day, you would build your fire inside the oven, building heat into the walls and floor.  Then you’d sweep put all the coals and ashes and put your bread inside and quickly shut the door to seal in the heat.  Not long after, the oven temperature would start falling. 

Now… back to biscotti.  The name really refers to a technique, not any recipe.  It means “twice cooked”.  You bake a loaf.  Then you take it out of the oven and slice it into pieces (or “morsels” as Scappi says), then bake these a second time at a lower temperature until they become hard and dry.  Now you can see that the invention of biscotti clearly has everything to do with this falling heat of the brick oven.  And by the way....why would you bake these things to death?  Preservation for sure.  With all the moisture gone, they’d last long.  Important before the age of zip lock plastic bags.  I think of biscotti as belonging to the same family of hardtack and many other dried foods that could go on long journeys at sea.

The old recipe above comes from the extraordinary Bartolomeo Scappi (c. 1500-1577) a great chef of the Italian Renaissance who was a personal cook to two popes.  He may call his biscotti “little morsels” but by whatever name, these are the real deal--twice cooked.  And while we’re with Bartolomeo, here’s an

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Antique Recipe Road Show

Citron for Christmas Breads and Fruitcakes

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Is citron grown and sold in the u.s? I’ve candied orange,lemon, grapefruit,and tangerine for panetone and lebkuchen,because store bought is so full of garbage. I’d also like to do citron but have not found any.

--Valerie Tassa

Valerie, I share your feeling about candied fruit here in the U.S. being really awful—sort of like sugary wax.  And while maybe with a lot of money and shipping from a gourmet company you CAN find good quality candied orange or lemon peel, it is especially difficult to locate citron, which is so little appreciated in the U.S.

For those not familiar...citron is of course the citrus fruit.  Its candied peel goes into various fruit cakes for the holiday.  You can see it pictured above with some candied orange peel.  This photo is from last winter when I bought these in the Mercato Orientale in Genoa, where the fruit goes by the name of cedro.  You can see just by looking at it this this has nothing to do with the hideous chunks of food colored stuff at the supermarket.  Nancy, wouldn’t you love to paint this?

Here are some more photos of candied fruits—many varieties—in the beloved Pietro Romanengo shop in Genoa.  They were in a huge basket on the counter, a feature of the Christmas Season.

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For more on citron, here’s a nice blog post by Susie Wyshak’s blog called artisanfooddiscoveries.  She does a great job on the citron and even includes a youtube video of John Kirkpatrick’s Lindcove Farm, which I believe is the only one in America that grows citron.  nuttyfig.com

Unfortunately, Americans think of fruit cakes as kind of a joke--though in recent years, there has been some efforts to revive them.  Not sure how that’s going when there’s so much chocolate around.  I think that there are just lots of people who don’t like candied fruit peel.  That’s cool.  But I wonder if those people have just never tasted any of decent quality.  When it’s good, candied fruit peel is delicate and tastes intensely of the fruit . . . not wax.  It is primo “not to be forgotten” territory, a technique invented so as not to waste even a fruit rind--a precious source of flavor, and really quite a brilliant use of sugar. 

Candied fruit has deep roots in ancient Jewish, Arab, and Christian tradition. Persians and Arabs were known for their advanced technique with sugar and candying not just fruit but flowers.  This technique was introduced to Europe around the Middle Ages.  Jews use citron --etrog-- for their fall holiday Sukkot.  And then, many of the famous Christmas breads--from Tuscany’s panforte to English fruit cake and German stolen--come from the east-west trade of the Middle Ages. 

Okay, Valerie, now to your question.  I don’t know where you live, but you can find fresh citron in the markets in California this time of year.  Here’s a market that sells citron.  Maybe you can call and ask them to ship some to you.  http://www.berkeleybowl.com

I also put in a phone call to John Kirkpatrick, the citron farmer.  I’ll let you know if I hear anything.

If you can’t get some fresh citron, perhaps these markets will probably ship you something of higher quality in the already-candied product: Both Kalustyans and Corti Brothers are known for their imports of high quality, and both sell citron.
http://www.kalustyans.com and www.cortibros.biz/. Note that Corti doesn’t have citron listed in their online catalog, but they have it on their shelves, so call.

Please let us know how you make out.  And send us pictures!  We’ll post them!

Next week, I’m going to post a story of my own holiday candied-fruit bread called pandolce.

Stay tuned.


Masher

Ways of Seeing

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Dining table near and far . . .
Here is another photo in the series I started to challenge the conventions I use over and over in my painting. This is the hand-me-down table in my dining room where we’ll be spending a lot of time soon for the holidays. A quiet moment pictured here before the guests and platters arrive.

see also: Ways of Seeing




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Jellypress is about Nancy and Laura having fun with what they love: old recipes, art, and ideas--as we find them in our modern lives.  We met...read more »

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A Thousand Years Over a Hot StoveA James Beard Award winning book that tells a history of American women through food, recipes, and remembrances. Recipes and illustrations from prehistory to the present day.
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The Lost Ravioli Recipes of Hoboken: A Search for Food and FamilyLaura's memoir about a search for a recipe, happiness, and mythic Italy--with many unexpected adventures along the way.
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Walking on WalnutsIn this culinary memoir, Nancy Ring combines funny and poignant stories of love and work with warm remembrances of a family that celebrates food with gusto and cherishes memories with passion...
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